I'm not one for hyperbole as I am conscious that what I say about wine has an impact. And, if I were to be hyperbolic about wines regularly then no-one would take my musings seriously.
So if I say that the Daosa Blanc de Blancs 2015 is the best Australian Sparkling Wine on the market, I mean it. I really do mean it.
Sparkling wine in Australia has a very hard time cutting through the noise that is Champagne.
If someone pays over a certain amount for a Sparkling Wine they expect to be drinking Champagne. The expectaiton being that Australian Sparkling is cheap by comparison. For an Australian Sparkling Wine to compete, it must be good...very good.
To my mind there are three wine labels that exemplify Australian Sparkling Wine and my discovery of each of them over time has been a revelation. Those are Clover Hill from Tasmania, House of Arras from Tasmania (regularly collecting gold medals year on year) and Daosa from the Adelaide Hills.
You can drink a lot of Sparkling Wine in life, but when one makes you look up and take note...you know you are on to something good. I have found this with Clover Hill and Arras, and again most recently with Daosa.
Daosa is made by Xavier Bizot, using fruit from the Bizot Vineyard in the Piccadilly Valley that was planted by his father...coincidentaly this is the same fruit that went into the original Croser Sparkling Wine when Brian Croser still owned the label under Petaluma.
Xavier is a great winemaker in his own right but has a rather special connection with Sparkling Wine. He grew up in the village of Ay in Champagne next door to the Bollinger Winery - brother Etienne is the Chairman of Jacques Bollinger et Cie.
I would suggest that he has a certain insight into what makes great Sparkling Wine.
Every vintage of Daosa has been somewhere between special and spectacular, they are hand made by Xavier and this is reflected in the quality of the wine. With each vintage comes more experience and better wine.
The 2012 was beautiful, completely balanced. A gorgeous wine to drink. And it was retailing in the mid $50's, which in turn made comparison with NV Champagnes a no-brainer. The quality was significantly better and it cost less.
Due to the vagaries of producing wine, the cost of the Daosa Blanc de Blancs 2015 has gone up considerably and I now retail it at $85. At first I was a bit shocked because price wise it is in competition with some very good french wine...
...And then I tasted it. I was blown away, it is in my mind the Best Sparkling Wine in Australia. I would happily compare it to Pierre Peters Blanc de Blancs NV, which is my favourite Champagne.
Such is the quality of this wine that Bennelong Restaurant at the Opera House has purchased half the prouduction, they are putting it on the menu to replace Vintage Krug!
So how does it taste?
My first thought..."F...Me what a wine!"
With aromas of fresh cut lemons and stone fruit against back notes of minerality and warm brioche it really bursts from the glass. A soft textural mousee excites the tongue before wasjing through flavours of crisp pineapples, green apples and a wonderful rush of buttery lemon curd. It is almost blink and you'll miss it, just as you recognise all these flavours they are washed clean with a beautifully dry finish. Phenomenal
A great wine, if you manage to keep any in the cellar I believe it will just get better. Production is miniscule, if you want to try some don't be afraid to grab it now...by Christmas it will be gone.
I stand by my words, this is Australia's Best Sparkling Wine.